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How To Change Pcv Valve On 2002 Audi A4 3.0 Engine

#1

JEENYUS is offline

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Post DIY: iii.0 PCV Replacement

I ran into the issue of my bad PCV but the other twenty-four hour period. I have seen only actually one post nigh it even after searching, but figured information technology could be useful for anyone in the future who needs to locate and supersede their own PCV for the iii.0.

Tools Needed:

Flathead Screw Driver
WD-40

Time: 10-twenty min

Showtime thing you will want to do is take off the cover located at the summit of your engine.

The PCV is located on the driver side of the engine bay just under the engine cover you just removed.

You need to remove the tabs holding in the PCV. I used the flat head screwdriver for this. It is piece of cake, only be careful equally to not break the tabs.

The PCV is held in by two O-rings. One on the inlet just under the clamps you only removed and 1 on the bottom of the PCV. Both of these can be removed past simply pulling them out. I used WD-twoscore to aid suspension downwardly whatsoever dirt or oil build-up that might have built-up over time.

The motion-picture show below will better help illustrate what is holding the bottom of the PCV in identify

All I did when removing the PCV is spray where the o-rings are with WD-xl and pull till it came out. It did have a little chip of forcefulness, but with fourth dimension it came out.

To put the new 1 in, its simply reverse of how you took it out. Put the bottom section in first, brand sure it is snug (shouldn't be able to pull it out) so push in the inlet side. Turn the car on and brand sure information technology is running correctly. If you didn't push it in enough you volition get a vacuum leak and substantially the same symptoms you had prior to changing out the PCV.

150.00 never looked soooo plain... New PCV installed.

Subsequently installed, my machine idled better and drove amend overall. Enjoy, hope this helps.

Asses are where information technology'due south at. even fat chicks can take nice boobs. -MmmBoost


#3

JEENYUS is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by big_c View Post

Did you discover any oil leaks from the engine due to the defective PCV?

How tin i test this PCV?

BTW, great write upwards, its good to run into some info on this finally :)

If you have a bad PCV the symptoms will be your car running like shit. very similar to a bad coilpack. The PCV keeps the your car running smoothly. Due to the bad PCV I now have to replace my valve cover gaskets on both sides. The pressure increment caused from the bad PCV has forced a leak in that area. This is normal.

One thing i forgot to put on the DIY is putting some sort of loob on the new PCV will help with the install.

Around the PCV it might look similar there was some sort of leak (in the pictures), but that is just from spraying it with some WD-forty. It helped with taking the sometime ane out.

Asses are where it's at. even fat chicks can accept nice boobs. -MmmBoost


#4

T0M3K is offline

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Quote Originally Posted past JEENYUS View Post

If yous have a bad PCV the symptoms will exist your car running like shit. very similar to a bad coilpack. The PCV keeps the your car running smoothly. Due to the bad PCV I at present have to supercede my valve cover gaskets on both sides. The pressure increase caused from the bad PCV has forced a leak in that area. This is normal.

One affair i forgot to put on the DIY is putting some sort of loob on the new PCV will assist with the install.

Around the PCV it might look like at that place was some sort of leak (in the pictures), merely that is just from spraying it with some WD-forty. Information technology helped with taking the old one out.

I am having horrible leaks through valve covers, wondering if that qualifies as PCV symptom


#6

imnuts is offline

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I plan on replacing my PCV along with the associated hoses that come with the refresh kits bachelor in the coming weeks. Was wondering if you know of a DIY or anything that somewhat shows where the hoses all become. I saw 2 of them this weekend, but I'm not entirely sure where the other ii hoses in the kit become. I'm guessing it'll be fairly obvious one time I start to supersede them, but I was hoping for some pics ahead of time to exist more familiar with what I'd be doing.


#7

T0M3K is offline

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Quote Originally Posted past imnuts View Post

I plan on replacing my PCV forth with the associated hoses that come up with the refresh kits bachelor in the coming weeks. Was wondering if you know of a DIY or anything that somewhat shows where the hoses all go. I saw 2 of them this weekend, but I'k not entirely sure where the other ii hoses in the kit go. I'yard guessing it'll be fairly obvious once I start to replace them, only I was hoping for some pics alee of fourth dimension to be more familiar with what I'd be doing.

Permit me only tell you, take your time, those things are more than fragile than they look. My hoses were brittle. Most difficult part is unclipping them, then routing new one.


#8

imnuts is offline

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If I can't find pictures, I'll exist sure to take some every bit I'm working on it. I was also planning on getting and installing the intake spacers from JHM at the same time as 1 of those "while yous're in there" things. Was going to fix bated an afternoon to work on it, possibly with some friends, so time wouldn't be that much of an upshot.


#nine

arjun90 is online now

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Didn't go through >$100+ dollars for the PCV Valve, went with Hudson Parts instead for $forty, works great.

Current:

| Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (iii.0T, Quattro) |
68,000 Miles
| Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
141,205 Miles

Retired:

| Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
221,000 Miles


#10

imnuts is offline

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I swapped out the unabridged PCV system yesterday. The upper hoses that connect to the valve covers and run to the PCV valve assembly are quite like shooting fish in a barrel, as is the short rubber heater hose one that goes into the rear of the PCV valve. The lower hose thought that goes down into the cake is an absolute PITA though. I wanted to get pictures, just my hands and arms were dirty and I didn't have a helper to get pics. I didn't fully remove the throttle trunk and intake manifold to change out the lower hose, but you need to unbolt the intake manifold at a minimum, unless you have little kid arms/hands.


#13

imnuts is offline

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I believe that in that location was an o-ring on the connection betwixt the rear intake pipe and the throttle body to help seal it, simply that is information technology.


#fifteen

cschuster is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by needmovies View Post

which kit did you go with?

I've been getting some leaks from the passenger side valve covers for a while now. I had just replaced the gaskets last sat, merely this morning I got another one of those low oil alarm on my way to work. I have not checked all the same if I'm leaking again since I was on my way to work.

I accept a feeling that my pcv might exist chock-full. any suggestions if I should just swap out the pancake valve, or if I should do the hoses as well?

You may also merely do them all while y'all're in there - they're going to intermission anyways, and yous can make heater hose replacements for $20ish.

Here'southward a pretty bad motion-picture show, simply you can see the heater hose and clamps on the commuter side.

Hose under intake manifold


#17

SJorge3442 is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by needmovies View Post

sorry forgot to mention, I bankrupt the two meridian hoses back when I did my timing belt ii years agone, so I already replaced them with heater hoses. But I did not replace the bottom hose yet.

I was wondering if I should only replace the pancake valve, or go a kit to supervene upon the whole organisation including the lesser hose that I did not replace before. Or should I become the pancake valve and the bottom hose only, and leave the height 2 hoses as rubbers?

I am tempted to just replace the valve and leave all the hoses every bit is seeing how much of a PITA it would be to supercede the bottom i. I just wanted to get some opinions to see if the lesser hose gets normally clogged as well and would need to be replaced.

thanks

I would become a new PCV valve and supervene upon the lines with heater hose. No sense replacing them with the crummy, super expensive plastic hoses again. If I remember, I volition try to snap some pictures of my lines today after work. Likewise, the line going under the manifold is likely the brittlest of all the hoses since it is exposed to more than rut than whatever of the other lines.

2017 A4 6 Speed - Sport Plus, Mythos Blackness. IE Intake/GFB VTA/IE Stage one/034 Res Delete
2003 3.0 vi Speed - Quattro. 175k. FOR Sale!


#19

SJorge3442 is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by needmovies View Post

good plan. I went ahead and ordered but the PCV valve. I already replaced the top ii lines with heater hose. This weekend I was looking into how to get the bottom 1 washed.

Any thoughts if it's possible to remove/supersede without removing the intake manifold? I can see where it attaches to from the side. I definitely can't fit my hand through, but I was thinking, would it be possible to use a long screw driver to unclip the tabs? Once I go the lesser hose off and replaced with the rubber heater hose. I recall it'll be stiff enough that I can reattach the tabs by belongings onto the upper end of the hose (this is assuming the locking mechanism is similar to the tabs on the acme hoses).

The power to change the lower line WITHOUT removing the manifold is pretty much not possible. To be honest, it would hurt to remove the manifold and supervene upon the gaskets and freshen upwards the fuel injector o-rings while you lot're at it. I think information technology took my 40 minutes total to go the manifold off and I was taking my good former time. The intake manifold gakets cost like $x from rock automobile and the injector o rings are merely a few bucks. This would exist a prime time to clean the throttle body while you're at it. Simply think of it as a huge PM task.

2017 A4 6 Speed - Sport Plus, Mythos Black. IE Intake/GFB VTA/IE Stage 1/034 Res Delete
2003 three.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 175k. FOR SALE!


#xx

OlivierA4 is offline

Established Member Two Rings



with 3/4" heater hose what type of plumbing equipment I demand in order to retrofit and replace the OEM PCV line?


#21

SJorge3442 is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by OlivierA4 View Post

with 3/4" heater hose what type of plumbing fixtures I need in guild to retrofit and replace the OEM PCV line?

3/iv" contumely elbows. Like these

2017 A4 6 Speed - Sport Plus, Mythos Blackness. IE Intake/GFB VTA/IE Phase i/034 Res Delete
2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 175k. FOR Sale!


#22

OlivierA4 is offline

Established Fellow member 2 Rings



let me become this directly,
with 3/4" brass elbow insert into heat hose. ane stop of the brass goes into the original fitting. is this correct? the original fitting is so plug dorsum into the engine. I need to get the contumely elbow and brass straight fittings right? we can not replace those original fittings that clip back into the engine? these plastic fittings are very scary to pry it off.

Olivier


#23

SJorge3442 is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by OlivierA4 View Post

let me get this straight,
with 3/4" contumely elbow insert into heat hose. one end of the contumely goes into the original fitting. is this right? the original plumbing fixtures is and then plug dorsum into the engine. I demand to go the brass elbow and brass direct fittings right? we can non replace those original fittings that clip back into the engine? these plastic fittings are very scary to pry information technology off.

Olivier

Yeah, you need to be careful with those fittings equally yous're gonna reuse them. All i did to remove the original engine fittings from the cracked hose was I ran a abrupt razor blade down the hose where information technology meets the connection. Cutting it and then you go through the piping and then the fittings will pull out. You can likewise use a rut gun to soften the plastic first, only I didn't feel like finding my heat gun that dark.

2017 A4 vi Speed - Sport Plus, Mythos Black. IE Intake/GFB VTA/IE Stage 1/034 Res Delete
2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 175k. FOR SALE!


#24

OlivierA4 is offline

Established Member Two Rings



Yous can likewise utilise a heat gun to soften the plastic start, but I didn't feel like finding my heat gun that dark.

Jorge,
cheers for this very scrap info. i don't know why i didn't think of heat gun to soften up the plastic.
Olivier


#25

deyrag is offline

Veteran Member 3 Rings



If you want a cheap source for the OEM plastic to supplant it without looking quite so ghetto this I what i used
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Crankcas...item258f464809


#26

SJorge3442 is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by deyrag View Post

not a bad price, but $seventy is nonetheless a hella lot more than than the $xx it took me to prepare mine, with a permanent solution. As well, I wouldnt say it looks ghetto every bit the rear engine encompass covers more of the connections and fittings. Do you really go to showing off you three.0 engine bay? At present if I had a shaved engine bay and a BAT, then peradventure I would opt for a more factory looking selection

2017 A4 6 Speed - Sport Plus, Mythos Black. IE Intake/GFB VTA/IE Stage 1/034 Res Delete
2003 three.0 half dozen Speed - Quattro. 175k. FOR SALE!


#27

deyrag is offline

Veteran Member Three Rings



Yes, but it was basically complimentary taking into account the $70 i saved by using an aftermarket pcv valve instead of the OEM one. :)

I just similar having things look stock (or amend than stock). I fifty-fifty bought a kit of Oetiker clamps to replace all of the hose clamps when I did my engine bandy.


#28

duxavant is offline

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I realize this thread is getting pretty old but I just bought a 2004 Avant with a 3.0 and I noticed some oil residue collecting on the rider side valve cover, non likewise far from where the dipstick is. I'm guessing this indicates some issues with the crankcase breather. The car has 73k on information technology, no codes and full service records but I'g guessing the lines are caked upwards. With such low miles, information technology probably never got warmed up plenty to get the gases moving through the lines so everything but settled out and built up. I'1000 sure whatever lines I affect will turn to dust so I'll demand to program on doing everything but I'm non too familiar with the way the organisation works. Should I plan on pulling the crankcase breather box off the valley pan and cleaning it out too or volition replacing all of the hoses be enough? Is a diaphragm rebuild kit available for the valve like it is for the older models or exercise I have to replace the valve? I will likely go "ghetto" and apply hoses instead of the plastic tubing considering I'thousand not going to the dealer and I detect most aftermarket semi-rigid plastic hoses to be short lived.


#29

john_gonzo is offline

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Welcome duxavant. Congrats on the purchase.

3/4" ID heater hose with brass fittings and hose clamps works slap-up for this. (EDIT: Epitome below is okay, but encounter plumbing fixtures size info in Mail service 33 and a meliorate motion-picture show in Post 34.)

Also, the valve covers contain baffles that can exist snapped out to clean out sludge.

The PCV "pancake valve" tin be disassembled and cleaned. Probably worth a try as new ones are pricey. I oasis't touched the valley pan on mine so I can't offer any feedback nearly that.

Last edited by john_gonzo; 10-22-2017 at 06:16 PM. Reason: Edited for clarity.

#30

Mikelb01 is offline

Established Member Two Rings



John_Gonzo: Did y'all replace all of your PCV hoses with new 3/four" heater type? I think its time for me to do this. I am familiar with the one that connects to the PCV valve itself, merely what is the one going next to the firewall?


#31

SJorge3442 is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by Mikelb01 View Post

John_Gonzo: Did you supplant all of your PCV hoses with new three/4" heater blazon? I call back its time for me to do this. I am familiar with the 1 that connects to the PCV valve itself, but what is the i going side by side to the firewall?

Im not sure if John ever replaced the line running to the valley pan, only Im pretty sure all of the hoses were swapped to heater hose. I myself replaced the whole PCV system (including the valley pan hose) with the heater hose. Did this about vii.5K miles ago and things accept been running great. With the exception of my PCV clogging due to curt drives in the city.

2017 A4 6 Speed - Sport Plus, Mythos Black. IE Intake/GFB VTA/IE Phase 1/034 Res Delete
2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 175k. FOR Auction!


#32

OlivierA4 is offline

Established Fellow member 2 Rings



Quote Originally Posted by SJorge3442 View Post

Im not certain if John ever replaced the line running to the valley pan, just Im pretty certain all of the hoses were swapped to heater hose. I myself replaced the whole PCV system (including the valley pan hose) with the heater hose. Did this about vii.5K miles ago and things accept been running neat. With the exception of my PCV clogging due to short drives in the city.

Jorge,
thank you for your help in replacing the PCV and heater hose. I put my project on concur until now since winter is pita to work on the driveway. I will do this work very soon (probably 2 weeks if my family time and/or school work let it) . so sad that I would similar to work on the car daily and get it done only ......


#34

john_gonzo is offline

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vtince, in reply to your PM most elbow quantity, I dug up the film below. This is the consummate PCV system on my 3.0. There are 3 brass elbows total. Hose lengths are written on the carboard. I used heater hose to the valley pan as well. I did non remove my intake to install that hose.

I had this whole system out of the auto to supplant O-rings on the connectors. This is what it looks like after 100,000 miles.

EDIT: This pic shows wrong connector going to valley pan. See updated photograph 2 posts down.

Terminal edited by john_gonzo; 01-16-2021 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Pointed to updated info.

#36

john_gonzo is offline

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3.0 PCV organization made with 3/4" ID heater hose. Hose lengths in inches.

Terminal motion-picture show is a tool I made to unclip the hose at the valley pan (intake installed). It'due south a thick wire, one finish pounded apartment and filed foursquare, then bent into a claw.


Source: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/480841-DIY-3-0-PCV-Replacement

Posted by: arcewrianded.blogspot.com

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